A few weeks ago, to celebrate our 9^th “civil” wedding anniversary, Rich and I spent a few days in Victoria, British Columbia, Canada. Months earlier, Rich had purchased discount tickets, through Groupon, for Victoria Clipper, a high-speed passenger ferry that whisks you from downtown Seattle to Victoria’s Inner Harbor in less than three hours.

We started our trip at around 4:3 a.m. on Friday morning. After making sure the birds and cats had plenty of food and water, and all six of the four-footed, sneaky, furry brats(cats) were accounted for ─ and not locked in a room or closet ─ we headed to a neighborhood McDonald’s for a light breakfast. I opted for their fruit and yogurt cup. Rich choose his usual Sausage McMuffin and was surprised when they had a buy one get one free deal.

It took us scarcely half an hour to drive downtown, and then zip into a parking garage. The entire time, I kept wondering why Rich felt it was necessary to arrive two hours before the boat left. However, as we approached the dock, we could see long lines of people waiting to drop off their luggage, buy tickets, and have their passports checked. I was glad we arrived early. Unfortunately, we weren’t early enough to get “low” ticket numbers.

The boat is loaded in groups of fifty based on your ticket number. With ticket numbers 177 and 178, we had to wait until at least 150 people boarded before we were able to find a seat. Happily, we found two seats next to each other, towards the back of the boat.

We had a pleasant trip, reading, nibbling on snacks, talking to the people across from us (plump Floridian’s from Tallahassee who were in Seattle to attend their son’s graduation from Seattle University), staring out the large windows, and walking onto the deck to marvel at the massive water jets that enabled the boat to go 30 knots (really fast).

After arriving in Victoria, we thought we could waltz off the boat. Not so. We spent at least an hour in line to get our luggage (actually, just Rich’s suitcase since I crammed my stuff into a gym bag), and go through Canadian customs.

Rich had made reservations at the Fairmont Empress Hotel(part of the Victoria Clipper offer), which was a short walk away. I couldn’t believe we were really staying at the Empress!!! Not only is the hotel considered one of the best in the world, but it’s gorgeous. Built in 1908, it has accommodated Rita Hayward, Jack Benny, Douglas Fairbanks, Katherine Hepburn, Bob Hope… Bing Crosby, Tallulah Bankhead, Shirley Temple, Barbra Streisand, and a host of kings, queens, movie stars, and other VIPs.

After checking in, and leaving our luggage with the porter (it was not even noon so our room wasn’t ready), we hit the streets. Our first stop was a scooter rental shop, to put a reservation on a two-person scooter for the following day. I had my doubts whether both of us could fit on a scooter, but seeing it — a Yamaha BW — I realized it’s built for two and considerably larger and more powerful than a Vespa (my vision of a scooter).

Our next, and very important stop, was Chinatown for dim sum. Yummy, yummy dim sum! Burp!

With the weather absolutely perfect, and our stomach full, we started walking and taking pictures. Victoria is a very beautiful and historical city that wraps around the picturesque Inner Harbor. Our feet took us along blocks of elegant buildings from the late 1800’s; past artists displaying their work along the waterfront; by dozens of sailboats with colorful pennants, commemorating the races they’ve been in; to my posing with Plasterman who whispered funny things in my ear as Rich took my picture with him; around open squares with people sitting outside, eating, talking, and enjoying the sunshine; and finally to the BC Parliament Building.

Because it was weekday afternoon, I assumed the parliament building would be open… and I was correct.

It’s an exquisite building that’s been enlarged and remodeled several times to add modern amenities and accommodate more employees, yet retain its historical characteristics, such carved woodwork, stained glass windows, and breathtaking rotunda. Check out the pictures in the slide show accompanying this article.

After dawdling a little longer, we returned to the Empress to check into our room. The room was on the fifth floor, down a long, hallway, covered with elegant, patterned wallpaper. Off this hallway were larger hallways, which were also wallpapers and decorated with antique chairs, table, dressers, writing desk, and large framed pictures of women who must have had some significance to the hotel or area.

The queen-sized bed in our petite room took up most of the space. You could open the door and barely take two steps before bumping into it. The room, however, was beautifully decorated with elegant curtains, gold-framed pictures of botanical prints, cream-colored walls, two cozy upholstered chairs, cherry-wood furniture, and a spacious bathroom. We opened the windows, took off our shoes, and took a short nap while the cool breeze wafting over us.

Refreshed, we headed for a local pub for an early dinner – fish and chips for Rich, and a burrito stuffed with roasted vegetables and black beans for me. Afterwards, we revved up our feet, and walked along the waterfront. Check out the pictures of the cruise ships and me standing on a sea wall. The ships are huge! One had a giant movie screen on the top deck so you could watch Titanic while the ship moseys through the Gulf Islands.

It was dark when we returned to our room, but still a reasonable hour so we grabbed our bathing suits, and headed to the indoor pool and Jacuzzi. Our muscles soothed, we watched a little TV and then conked out.

The following day was overcast so Rich got up early, snuck down to a computer in the lobby and made arrangements to rent a car. Amazingly, it was cheaper to rent a car than a scooter, and we’d be able to go a heck of a lot further and enjoy padded seats, satellite radio, moon roof and other amenities like a heater and windshield wipers.

Breakfast was Starbucks coffee and cranberry scones. After reviewing tourist brochures and maps, we hit the road, traveling along the coast, north to Sidney. As we drove, we thanked our lucky stars for pointing us towards renting a car rather than trying to read maps and communicate with each other as we negotiated narrow side streets, and climbed hills on a low-powered scooter.

Sidney-by-the-Sea, or as it’s commonly called, Sidney is preserved in time with a population of just 11,000. Lining main street and along the waterfront are charming shops, public art, and walking trails. As we approached the car – a cute, black Ford Focus – we saw an older couple checking it out. They were Canadians and interested in getting a fuel-efficient commuter car. We started a conversation, and they explained no “box” stores are allowed in Sidney.

I hope to visit Sidney this September when we charter a tugboat. It would be fun to leisurely wander through the shops.

From Sidney, with no way to go any further north, unless we boarded a ferry, we head south to Cowichan Bay, a small fishing village, which draws boatloads of tourist. We’d visited this town last year when we chartered a sailboat and had one of our worst un-docking adventures. We’ve since hard-wired in our brains the proper procedure for leaving a windy marina when you’re wedged between two boats… use your bow line and forward throttle to push the stern off the dock, and then release the line!

We weren’t impressed with Cowichan when we visited last year, and our opinion didn’t change this visit. While the Maritime Centre and Cowichan Wooden Boat Societyare very interesting with great exhibits and an unusual collection of buildings or galleries that stretch across a long dock, after you’ve seen the Centre once or twice, there’s little need to go back.

Referring to our handy-dandy tourist brochures, our next stop was Duncan, City of Totems. The town, one of the largest in British Columbia, is home to the Cowichan Tribe of the Coast Salish Nation. Throughout the downtown are over 30 totem poles, most carved in the area and some donated from other cultures, such as Polynesia.

I’ve always been fond of Salish designs and imagery. The totem poles are strangely comforting with dramatic colors, and abstract carvings of orca whales, ravens, seals, otters, eagles, beavers (humorous with giant teeth) people, and mystical creatures.

It was fun to follow the footsteps painted on the sidewalks and streets, to each totem pole. You never knew where they’d lead you, such as between two buildings which were painted with forest and coastal scenes.

The couple we meet in Sidney said we should visit Chemainus. Their website says it’s “so quaint and quiet, you will not want to leave.” I can’t wait to return to Chemainus in September!

Chemainus is a Norman Rockwell-perfect little town, which is made even more wonderful by the 37 murals painted on houses and buildings. Before I write about the murals, you need to understand the vision and fortitude of Chemainus residents.

With a single major employer in the area – a wood mill – Chemainus’ economy was tied to the fluctuating success of the mill and availability of timber. In addition, the town is located off the main highway so it couldn’t rely on tourists driving by, stopping, and spending money.

In 1981, when British Columbia was in the midst of a recession, Bill Vander Zalm, the Premier of British Columbia developed community initiative grants to aid towns in revitalization projects. Chemainus took up his challenge and their outdoor gallery of murals was started.

The 37 murals are spectacular, familiarizing you to the people, stories, and natural resources in the area. Unlike many murals, they’re meticulously painted. You’re compelled to walk up close to study the details, and then step back to take in the entire picture. It’s impossible to stand in one place. You want to move around, seeing how the murals appear from different angles.

Some of the murals meld in the architectural details of the “canvases” on which they’re painted. A window or door becomes part of a street scene, such as “The Lumber Barons” by Constance Greig-Manning.

See and read about all of the murals Note: It can take a little while to load each page, but it’s worth the wait.

After being mentally refreshed in Chemainus, we head south to Sooke, which was supposed to have nice beached. We had some map challenges and basically ended up driving through the area without stopping. By then, it was nearly 8 o’clock at night and our stomachs were aching for food.

We returned to Victoria, and used the GPS to pinpoint the nearest gas stations so we could fill-up, return the rental car, and secure food. To Rich delight, there was a Red Robin two blocks from a gas station.

After a tasty meal and chatting with the server about our day, we dropped off the car… and deposited the key in the rental car box. I then turned to Rich and asked, “Where’s your BVI [British Virgin Islands] baseball hat?”

The next ten minutes was a blur of activity, consummating in our donning warm clothing, and walking two miles back to Red Robin to retrieve Rich’s hat. It was around 11:30 when we got back to the Empress… time to slip on our bathing suits.

We had planning on sitting in the hot tub for a few minutes and then returning to our room, but we got in a conversation with a couple about sailing, places to visit, life in Canada, and other miscellaneous topics. The entire time, we were sitting in or by the hot tub — a perfect breeding ground for cooties.

During the night, my throat got scratchy and I started tossing and turning. By morning, I wanted to be put out of my misery. Nevertheless, I put on a brave face, slurped a large glass of orange juice from McDonald’s, and walked around the town for an hour or so with Rich, before returning to the Empress, slinging my duffle bag over my shoulder, and walking to the Clipper.

Once again, it took over an hour to get through customs, and wait in line to board the boat. This time, we got seats near a window. We shared the “booth” with two other couples. Nearest the window was a couple from Seattle who were adamant Republicans. They lamented the drop in government funding to a nursing home for which the man was on the board of directors, while crowing about the virtues of Rich Perry, the current government of Texas who’s aiming to be president of the United States. Actually, according to a recent statement from Perry, he like George W. Bush, has been chosen by God to become president. Yeah.

The other couple – Sam and Cynthia — was delightful, intelligent, retired professionals from Toronto. Sam, a dentist, had worked in public health, and Cynthia had been a commercial realtor. They had been on an Alaskan cruise, and before returning to Toronto, decided to zip over to Seattle for a few days. Rich and I thoroughly enjoyed talking to them and learning more about Canada.

After departing the boat and once again going through customs, we headed home, refreshed from a splendid get-away.

As for my cold, I purchased a generic version of Musinex (booger de-gunker) and was amazed how quickly it worked. Within a day, most of my cold symptoms disappeared!!!

(Continuation of our east coast adventure in early May) After a restful sleep and shower at the Day’s Inn in Arlington, Virginia, we hit the road for Alexandria, and once again thanked our “lucky stars” for helping us to get a rental car the night before, following our late arrival in Washington D.C.

With the heat and high humidity, Virginia is verdant and beautiful with green deciduous trees, flowering bushes, and emerald green lawns. We passed street-after-street of beautiful historical houses surrounded by blooming peonies, azaleas, rhododendrons, wisteria, lilacs, morning glories, hydrangea, honeysuckle, and ornamental grasses. Virginia makes my heart pitter-patter even if I keep hearing the voice of people I know who’ve lived in the South, and speak fervently about the dreaded humidity and heat of Virginia summers.

We had no problem finding parking a parking spot in downtown Alexandria, across from the Stabler-Leadbeater Apothecary Museum, a retailer, wholesaler, and manufacturer of herbal botanicals, which was founded in 1792. After feeding the parking meter, with a tour map in hand, we set out along the narrow, occasionally cobblestoned streets to seek out and snap pictures of historical shops, houses, and taverns.

Because much of downtown Alexandria has been gentrified with the historical buildings restored rather than taken down, on nearly every block a building or street is listed on the National Register of Historical Places. I was in awe of the ornate, Georgian row houses with tall rectangular windows, shutters painted in contrasting colors, pretty entryways, low picket or metal fences, and tall brick chimneys.

I immediately longed to move from our suburban home with a big yard to a cute little row house. Then it occurred to me, these houses were building in the 1700’s when plumbing consisted of a pitcher and washbasin for a sink, and a chamber pot for a commode. In addition, the kitchens were probably small, requiring a table for preparing foods, shelves for dishes, and a fireplace for cooking. Accommodating a modern kitchen with a stove, oven, dishwasher, double-sink, refrigerator, and cupboards, would require major remodeling, electrical, and plumbing, and most likely, the need to expand into another room.

In addition, the only light that comes into a row house (unless located at the end of a row) is through the windows in the front and rear of the house… and if your house is on the National Register, you need to keep the original windows. The most difficult aspect – at least for me – would be the proximity to the street. The front doors of the row houses we saw were a handful of steps from the edge of the sidewalk. Pedestrians walk within a few feet (or inches) of your front windows and doors. Closing your drapes doesn’t become a choice, but a necessity.

Okay. Skip living in a historical row house in an east coast city!

After an hour or so, we decided to duck into The Lyceum, a grand hall, built by the Alexandria Lyceum and the Alexandria Library Company in 1839 for lectures, scientific experiments, and “quiet reading.” The building was later used as a Civil War hospital, private home, office building, nation’s first Bicentennial Center, and currently Alexandria’s History Museum. While small, the museum provided information about the area, founding of the United States, and of course, the Civil War.

Also of interest was the Gadsby Tavern, built in 1785. The tavern and associated hotel became the center of Alexandria’s economic, political and social live in the late 18th and 19^thcenturies. Visitors included George Washington, Thomas Jefferson, John Adams, James Madison, and James Monroe.

Recently, a portion of the tavern’s basement was restored. From the sidewalk, you can walk down a small flight of stairs to a large window, which allows you to look down into a cistern, for storing water, and also a portion of the basement for cold storage. Food was kept cold by storing below ground.

Nestled among the houses was Christ Church, the first Episcopal Church in Alexandria. Completed in 1773 by Scottish merchant John Carlyle, the church was regularly attended by George Washington and Robert E. Lee.

I was too short to look inside the church, but Rich said there were “gated” sections of pews, which were assigned to local families for their use.

The churchyard, surrounding the church had dozens of worn gravestones, which had been moved throughout the decades for construction and during the Civil War, when they had been stacked against the parish walls. From the late 1700’s to 1809, it’s estimated around 1,000 people, including eleven African-Americans were interred in the scarcely half-acre churchyard.

Located in the center of Alexandria is Market Square, one of the oldest continuous operating farmers’ markets in the nation where local farmers, including George Washington (who owned five farms in Mount Vernon) used to sell their crops.

The square was also used for public meetings and military operations. According to a website on historical Alexandria, “In 1755, Gov. Robert Dinwiddie designated George Washington (age 23) colonel and commander-in-chief of all Virginia forces; and Washington is known to have reviewed and possibly drilled the local Fairfax County militia and the militias of four other counties in Market Square. Later, as the colonies prepared for the Revolution, George Washington was appointed commander of the Fairfax independent militia companies, and he reviewed the militia troops in Alexandria’s Market Square in early January 1775. On June l5, 1775, the Second Continental Congress selected George Washington as commander-in-chief of the Continental Armies.”

After wandering through historical Alexandria for a few hours, and seeing that our parking meter needed to be feed, we drove to a few miles to the Torpedo Factory Art Center. I was super excited about seeing the factory because I’d read about it in advance and knew it has become one of the largest visual art centers in the country with 82 artist studios, six galleries, an art school, and the Alexandria Archaeology Museum.

The multi-building complex was built after World War I by the U.S. Navy to manufacture torpedoes. Production continued until 1945 when the buildings were used for a government storage facility. Years later, the city of Alexandria renovated the building into working studio spaces for artists and craftspeople.

Rather than look at art, our goal for visit the Factory was to grab a quick lunch, and then head to Mount Vernon.

The Factory beaconed us and we ended up spending over an hour quickly walking through the three floors of extraordinary art from paintings to photography, jewelry, ceramics, sculpture, beadwork, lithography and prints (they have a larger area filled with art presses), and glasses. I could have spent all day casually wandering through the galleries.

Finding something decent to eat for lunch was a different matter with three to four fast food joints in the Factory’s food court. We settled on splitting a plate of dreadful Chinese fried noodles, mystery meat, and vegetables (primarily cabbage). Nauseated, but our stomachs full, we set out for Fort Ward.

Located a short drive from downtown Alexandria, Fort Wardis the best preserved of the Union forts and batteries built to protect Washington D.C. during the Civil War. Today, it looks like a giant park with a handful of canons and signs, pointing out how the site was used. The latter isn’t readily obvious mainly because warfare wasn’t overly sophisticated during the Civil War. Essentially, battalions of men would race up hills, over berms, and around other obstacles. The battalion in the most strategic location or with canons would kill most of the men in the other battalion; thereby becoming the winners.

Thousands upon thousands of men would be killed in a single day, left to rot on the battlefield their single-shot muskets at their sides. It was a macabre and horrible war. It’s estimated 620,000 Americans died from battle deaths or disease during the war.

After visiting Fort Ward, we drove to Mount Vernon, passing the George Washington Masonic National Memorial. This colossal memorial and museum sit on top of a hill, overlooking downtown Alexandria. Running short on time, we skipped seeing it, which in retrospect was wise.

I was expecting the Mount Vernon Estate and Gardensto take an hour or two to tour. Ha!

The estate and associated visitor centers, gardens, and buildings are extensive, and if you dawdled, could take all day to visit. Along with buying a ticket to see Washington’s house, we decided to go on a 45-minute cruise of the Potomac River, which runs along the back of the estate. Unfortunately, the gloom of the day didn’t lift so the cruise wasn’t overly scenic, but it was a nice opportunity to sit down, relax, and nibble on popcorn as we viewed the shoreline.

Prior to getting on the boat, we zoomed by Washington’s tomb, which I found creepy. The burial vault, which also houses Martha and other members of the Washington family, is quite sizable. In the middle is Washington’s ossuary, no doubt, containing not much more than his bones, dentures made from hippopotamus teeth, and war medals, which unlike flesh and clothing, taking longer to disintegrate.

Following the boat ride, we visit the pioneer farmer site, which was representative of Washington’s farming operations on his plantations. People in period clothing were on hand to elaborate on farming techniques, the “joys” of being a slave, and the operation of his innovative 16-sided barn.

Yes, unlike what Michele Bachman believes, the founding fathers may have expressed a dislike for slavery, but weren’t hesitant to use them to boost their personal fortunes. In the case of Washington, there were 316 slaves at Mount Vernon, including 123 owned by Washington, 40 leased from a neighbor, and 152 dower slaves, which were part of his wife Martha’s first husband’s estate.

Wikipedia notes, “As on other plantations during that era, his [Washington’s] slaves worked from dawn until dusk unless injured or ill and they were whipped for running away or for other infractions. They were fed, clothed, and housed as inexpensively as possible, in conditions that were probably quite meager. Visitors recorded contradictory impressions of slave life at Mount Vernon: one visitor in 1798 wrote that Washington treated his slaves “with more severity” than his neighbors, while another around the same time stated that ‘Washington treat[ed] his slaves far more humanely than did his fellow citizens of Virginia.’ Washington’s writings show that he had a low opinion of the honesty and willingness to work of his slaves, as well as of the ability of his overseers to control them. The overseers were given written authorization to whip those slaves he considered to be in need of such ‘correction,’ including female slaves.”

Although, Washington was the only prominent, slaveholding Founding Father to emancipate his slaves, which he did following his and his wife’s death.

As noted previously, Rich and I must have been asleep through American history, because neither one of us knew that Washington had slaves. And discovering he was an enthusiastic slave-owner sored much of our visit to Mount Vernon.

We rambled across the estate, interpreting everything we saw with a bias. “Gee, could Washington had accumulated and worked 8,000 acres of fruit and vegetables, formal gardens, nurseries and greenhouse for propagating new plant and seed varieties, and an extensive fishing operation if he to pay for labor versus working slaves from dawn to dusk, six days a week?”

Plus, George and Martha extensively entertained, keeping the domestic slaves hopping from slaughtering animals and preparing meals to laundering and ironing clothes and linens, cleaning the mansion, and doing what’s necessary to ensure horses and carriages were ready at a moment’s notice.

Not only did slaves have to do all of the work around the estate, but they had to make their own clothes and shoes, grow and prepare their own food, and somehow care for their children and personal needs.

Okay, looking past the slavery issues, there were many innovations on the estate, which were noteworthy. There were small outdoor privies or toilets called necessaries with drawers in the bottom to collect human waste. This waste, along with that of farm animals was placed in the dung repositoryto decompose and be turned into fertilizer for crops.

Washington inherited the mansion from his father and expanded and remodeled it several times. To create a stone-like exterior, the walls were sprayed with a mixture of paint and sand. The interior is surprisingly ornate with marble fireplaces, baroque ceilings and carved molding, rich wood paneling, large oil paintings, and elegant drapery and furniture. Check out a virtual tourof the mansion.

Hands down, our favorite part of the estate was visiting with Martha Washington. We were about ready to leave and saw a building, which we hadn’t gone into. The attendant at the door told us to enter quietly because “she had guests.”

Inside were rows of chairs with a small stage with period furniture and knick-knacks. Seated on an upholstered chair was Martha Washington in an ornate dress, talking about her life at Mount Vernon. The woman playing Martha was extraordinary. You could ask her any question and in a conversational tone she’d respond, speaking as if it was still the 1700’s.

Rich and I were mesmerized. She talked about how various politicians didn’t support Washington, creating strife and questioning his ethics. One politician she refused to name. I believe she was referring to Patrick Henry who opposed the United States Constitution and refused to attend the Constitutional Convention of 1787, claiming he “smelt a rat in Philadelphia.”

If you closed your eyes, it sounded as if she was talking about the mendacity and “terrorist tactics” of today’s Republicans who refuse to support anything President Obama proposes!

Running out of time, and needing to get to Rock Hall, Maryland to get on the boat we were chartering, we had to zoom through the Ford Orientation Center and Donald W. Reynolds Museum and Education Center, two large complexes with fascinating exhibits and educational galleries and theaters. If we visit the east coast again, we’ll have to visit Mount Vernon once again.