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Rajalary

~ The adventures of Richard and Julie Lary

Rajalary

Category Archives: Travel

No Itch’n in Olympia

22 Monday Jun 2009

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To celebrate our seven year "civil" wedding anniversary, Rich and I spent three glorious day sailing in the south Puget Sound. Early Friday morning, we headed to Olympia and stopped at I-Hop for a yummy breakfast – eggs benedict for me and a veggie omelet for Rich. We then zipped to a Goodwill to buy a "bag of rags" for $4.99 in anticipation of having to dry off the boat.

For the past thirty days, Seattle didn’t have a drop of rain (it’s true). On Thursday night and Friday morning, however, the rain came down in sprinkles then buckets.

We arrived at Island Sailing around 9:00, somewhat eager to get on the boat, considering the drippy weather. After receiving an orientation of the areas and how to navigate out of the tricky marina, we headed down to the boat, a 30-foot Catalina. It took two trips to the car to gather up our two sleeping bags, a large duffle bag of clothes and foul weather gear (known as foulies), another duffle bag of sailing gear (vest, radio, GPS, binoculars, etc), an ice chest of food and ice (the boat had an insulated ice chest), and two plastic bins of non-perishable food, coffee, books, maps, plates, paper towels… and a luscious chocolate mocha cake with chocolate coffee beans. The latter is a must for a sailing trip! Das boot

Once everything was unpacked and put into its place, it was time to cast-off. And happily, by the time we left, the rain had ceased and the air had become muggy.

By the time, we reached open water, we needed to change into shorts and t-shirts because the gray skies had been cleared by a strong wind that was warmed by the sun. For the next few hours, we sailed at the warp speed of 4-6 knots.

Everything was perfect! Easy boat to sail. Incredible weather. Splendid wind. Little traffic and few crab pots to avoid. And glorious scenery.  

Around 5 o’clock, we picked up a mooring ball by Stretch Island. After a quick dinner (ham, instant potatoes, and salad with lettuce from our garden), we took the dinghy ashore to gather seashells and rocks.

Across from where we moored was a upscale camp site owned by the Olympia Yacht Club (below). It has a large club house along with numerous tiki huts, one of which was an outdoor kitchen.  Olympic Sailing Club

After a delightful night’s rest in the cozy v-berth, made more cozy with two huge flannel sleeping bags, we slipped on our lightweight clothing, thinking we were going to have another warm and windy day.

Nope. The gray skies had no intention of going away. In fact, they decided to spew water, forcing us to layer on the clothing and pull out our foulies. Here I am dressed from head-to-two in ghastly yellow, trying to be cheerful while my teeth chattered. Julie in raingear

In spite of the weather, I managed to doze off while reading a magazine in the drizzle. When the rain increased, Rich suggested that I go below deck, where I could stay dry while he braved the elements and motored on to our next destination. It was impossible to sail with the rain and intermittent wind.

Happily, the rain eased as we approached McMicken Island, a state park that can only be reached by boat or walking across a sandbar that connects to Hartstene Island during low tide. Personally, I would never cross a sandbar in the Puget Sound where the water is a deadly 60 degrees and tides are 14 feet from high to low.

Oh, here’s a picture of the brave captain in his snazzy foul weather gear, including grizzly beard and furrowed brow. Rich in raingear

After gobbling some lunch, we jumped in our dinghy and rowed ashore. McMicken is 11.5 acres in size with several hiking trails and a very rocky shore that is evidentially teaming with shellfish from clams to oysters. You can explore the entire island except for a small fenced off area that used to belong to the original inhabitant who wanted to claim the island for the King of Sweden (at least that’s one of the stories about the island).

In the fenced off area, you can see several run down buildings along with a house that seems to be in pretty good shape with bookshelves still full of books. I was aching with curiosity to climb over the fence and peak in the house. Captain Rich, however, kept telling me it was PRIVATE PROPERTY. Drats!

After returning to our boat, we nibbled on crackers, cheese and smoked salmon the both conked out while reading. As it grew cold, Rich went below deck and I climbed into the v-berth to continue my late-day nap.

Dinner was next on the agenda, followed by more sleep. One of the best parts of being on the boat is being rocked to sleep and hearing the halyard rhythmically tapping against the mast!

The next morning brought sunshine with little wind, but many seals on a Sunday stroll (swim). The seals were a hoot to watch. Just as we were about ready to give up on the wind, it picked up, providing Rich with an opportunity to hang onto the wheel while I trimmed the sails as we tacked back-and-forth numerous times.

As we neared Olympia, we had a slight docking challenge when we went to top off diesel. Rich cut into the dock too late, leaving me with a foot or two of dock that I had to jump onto and quickly tie up the boat. If I had waited another moment to jump, I would have landed in the water!Rich making coffee

At the pump-out (sewage) dock,  a couple from another boat helped us dock. The wind was blowing us away from the dock, making it hard to get close enough to the dock for me to jump.

The opposite occurred when we pulled into the boat slip… the wind gently blew the boat towards the dock so I simply waited until the boat glide near the dock then jumped, tied off the stern then caught the line from Rich and tied off the bow. In non-sailing terms: Our third attempt to dock was perfectly executed!

Above is Rich making coffee in the boat’s galley. He’s more awake in the morning than I and much better at making coffee.

We talked to two couples on McMicken Island who live on their boats. One man, a pilot with two young children, waxed poetic about the virtues of living on a sailboat. For Rich and I, we had a splendid three days sailing, but were thrilled to get home to our full-size kitchen, bedrooms, living, dining and family rooms… along with toilets that aren’t a hassle to flush!

Enjoyable Trip to Portland

14 Thursday May 2009

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Last week, I took the train to Portland, Oregon… a pleasant 3.5 hour trip through scenic Washington. Amtrak is very enjoyable because you can purchase a ticket online, waltz to the train station half an hour before the train leaves, get a boarding pass then leisurely get on the train without being searched or x-rayed. Plus, the seat are like Barcaloungers, made out of leather with a platform that lifts up so your legs are elevated.

On the ride up, I sat next to a woman who graduated from Reed College in the 60’s. She was bring a large box of books and notes from her calligraphy studies to donated to the university’s library. She had created a font called Gutter, which she "wrote" in my diary using a calligraphy pen.

The time passed quickly, talking to her about the influence of music on typography and how punk has influenced her recent work. She recommended that I start a journal that is composed of bits of writing and snippets of things that catch my attention. I took her advice and the first pages of this free-form journal has my Amtrak and Tri-Met (bus) ticket from my Portland trip!

After I arrived in Portland, I hustled downtown where I caught a bus to downtown Sherwood, which is a short walk to my mother’s house. Haystack rock

The weather was perfect… 70-degrees with clear skies, which reaffirmed my desire to drive to the coast the next day. With a picnic lunch packed and Cyrano (rat terrier) and Gigi (Sheltie) in the car, we headed to Cannon Beach. Half of Portland must of had the same idea because it took us a while to find a parking spot!

Cannon Beach is a classyCyrano at the beach town with many art galleries and boutiques, restaurants, and landscaped plazas with benches where you can watch the hordes of people walk by, many with dogs on leashes or tucked under their arm. The beach is equally wonderful. You can walk for miles on the smooth sand, picking up rocks and driftwood or wandering around the tidal pools. The picture above is Haystack Rock, which is opposite Cannon Beach. 

Cyrano and Gigi were thrilled to be at the beach. They ran around, barking at the waves and greeting other dogs (and humans) on the beach.

After eating our picnic lunch (turkey wraps, grapes, carrots, wheat crackers) at Cannon Beach, we headed south to Tillamook(below) and the Tillamook cheese factory. GigiWhile you can’t tour the factory any more, you can walk through the exhibits, sample cheese… and of course, purchase tourist items, along with cheese and other diary products, jams, jellies, canned fruits and vegetables, seafood, and other Oregon gourmet foods.

After stocking up on cheese — I got Rich a white cheese with whole black peppers — we indulged in a cup of Tillamook ice cream. I had espresso mocha!

We then headed home through the Tillamook State Forest and lush farm lands. It was a very pleasant dayTillamook for my mother, myself and the two dogs.

Meanwhile, Rich was in Mount Vernon, fixing the air conditioner in our motor home and doing other household projects.

Late Sunday afternoon, I took the train back to Seattle… sleeping and reading most of the way.

Fabulous Weekend

27 Monday Apr 2009

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Late Friday afternoon, Rich and I picked up our motor home in Mount Vernon, loaded it with food, clothing, and a newly purchased inflatable canoe, then set out for Deception Pass State Park. Rich had made a reservation weeks earlier so we simply needed to drive to our campsite, connect the water and electricity, and enjoy a candle-lit dinner of rotisserie chicken, baked potatoes, salad, and kalamatta olive bread dipped in roasted garlic olive oil. 

With a sliver of sunlight remaining, we quickly cleaned up then walked to the beach to gather rocks – mostly white and cream-colored quartz – and listen to the waves crashing on the shore. The beaches in the Pacific Northwest are rugged with rocks and pebbles instead of sand, and huge piles driftwood from fallen trees and branches.

There were several elaborate lean-tos, built from the driftwood, on the beach. Rich and I crawled into one then realized if it collapsed, no one would hear our cries. We envisioned being featured on a TV show or Website as one of the dumbest ways to die. 

Coming to our sensed, we scurried back to our motor home, using a dirt trail instead of the well-lit road. We had to strain our eyes to see the boulders and roots in the path. We could have easily stumbled and been featured in the dumbest way to break a bone.

The next morning, we hopped on our bikes and rode to another beach. We thought we could ride on the sand, but it was too soft and akin to pedaling in gooey mud… not fun and lots of hard work. Nevertheless, we got to watch several people in sea kayaks practice flipping over and righting themselves up. I now have no desire to ever go sea kayaking. The idea of being upside-down in frigid water, teaming with Orcas whales, and struggling to flip myself over, without slithering out of the kayak, doesn’t appeal to me.

Our walk/ride on the beach ended by the Deception Pass Bridge (below). Built in 1935, the bridge connects Fidalgo and Whidbey Islands and was declared a National Historic Landmark in 1982.  Before the bridge was built, travelers had to hit a mallet against a metal lumberjack saw to summons a ferry boat captain who would take them from one island to the other. Deception Pass Bridge

Crossing Deception Pass is a tricky feat even in today’s powerful boats. At peak current of 8 knots (9.5 miles per hour), almost 900 million gallons of water pour through the deep and turbulent channel that connects the Strait of Juan de Fucas with the Saratoga Passage. The only boat that I’ve seen go through the channel is a high-speed tour boat. And supposedly, several gutsy Navy pilots from the nearby base have flown under the bridge.

After dragging our bikes from the beach up to the highway, we decided to ride on a “perimeter” trail. At first, we encountered several large boulders and roots, which forced us to walk our bikes. The trail then evaporated into a narrow foot path that zigzagged along a rocky slope.  In certain places, Rich had to carry my bike because I didn’t have the strength and balance to hold the bike up while clambering up the rocky boulders.

Nevertheless, the view and the surrounding flora were spectacular. On the sun-baked slopes was pale green succulents interspersed with delicate red, yellow, white, and purple wild flowers. In the bay below, the tide was completely out, leaving a dozen or so boats resting on the muddy bottom. Several blue heron took advantage of the receding water, prodding the mud with their long, sharp beaks for morsels of food. Of course, we didn’t have our camera!

Canoe after maiden voyageOnce we got back to our motor home, we ate a quick lunch then laid-out the canoe, which was flat with a multitude of zippers, tubes, and baggy canvas. I was pleasantly surprised as Rich pumped it full of air. As you can see in the picture, it’s fairly large and amazingly comfortable. Once assembled, we were able to easily carry it from our campsite to Cranberry Lake, a 15-minute walk. The lake had once been filled with sea water, but natural springs in the area eventually flushed out the salt water, leaving a calm, trout-filled lake.

We gently placed the canoe in the water and eased into the seats. Rather quickly, we discovered that the canoe was best powered by having me paddle with one half of the kayak paddle and Rich with the other. In this manner, we balanced out each other. Plus, it gave me something to do.

I was amazing at how easy it was to paddle around the lake. I can’t wait to try the canoe in other waterways, such as Lake Sammamish by Microsoft and Lake Union in downtown Seattle… and so many other places that will be fun to see from the water!Captain Rich

Because the weather was so perfect, cool with clear skies, after canoeing, we headed back to the beach to watch the waves and hordes of people also enjoying the evening. With summer solstice two months away, the days are getting long in the Pacific Northwest with dusk arriving around 9 o’clock.

Sunday morning, we awoke with no aches or pains so we jumped back on our bikes and did more sightseeing and rock collecting. Around 1 o’clock, we sadly headed back to Mount Vernon to unpack the motor home, run some errands then head south to Kirkland and our workaday lives.

From canoeing to enjoying time together in the motor home, it was a fabulous weekend!

Camping at Keystone

15 Sunday Mar 2009

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Several weekends ago, we scurried up to Mount Vernon, jumping in our motor home and drove to Fort Casey on Whidbey Island. After getting situated in a camp site by the water, we watched the last ferry of the night go from Keystone to Port Townsend. Keystone Camping

If you weren’t looking, you wouldn’t notice that the ferry had just glided by, only 40-50 feet from the shore. They are very quiet.

The next morning, we biked to the ferry landing for a quick breakfast of bagels, cream cheese with chunks of smoked salmon, and a latte with almond flavor. Yum.

We then took our bikes on the ferry to Port Townsend. The picture above was taken from the ferry. Our motor home is the one to the right.

Stacey met us in Port Townsend to show us the boat – the Adventuress – that she’s been working on for the past few months. Every year, the boat is refurbished, a strenuous job that requires the help of dozens of volunteers and paid staff.

We then rode around the town; Stacey used the Shore Dinghy, a Stacey on Shore Dinghy rusty bike that the crew of the Adventuress uses for errands and trips to the on-shore bathrooms.

We went by the paper mill and motel that were featured in the movie, "An Officer and a Gentleman." Stacey also showed us a rope swing that was tied to a giant tree. We each took turns swinging… some of us were more adventurous than others.

Having worked up an appetite, we headed for downtown Port Townsend and had a wonderful lunch at Sirens, which is in a historical building and has a view of the water. Most the building in downtown Port Townsend are from the turn-of-the century with tall, skinny windows, exposed brick, and ornate trim.

After lunch, we zipped into Mad Hatter & Company where I tried on and purchased a wonderful green hand-knit boiled wool hat with an upturned gray brim and a large multi-colored flower. It was much more fashionable than my Columbia Sportswear fleece baseball cap. And happily, it was equally warm. Adventuress_Rich and Stacey

As the afternoon drew to a close, we said "good-bye" to Stacey and took the ferry back to Keystone. After a quick snack, we biked over to Fort Casey, a decommissioned fort that along with Fort Flagler (on Marrowstone Island) and Fort Worden (in Port Townsend) created a "Triangle of Fire" to protect the Puget Sound from enemy invasions. 

The fort is on 467 acres and was built in the 1890’s. It’s quite large and housed hundreds of men when active. We’ve been to several of these forts, which I find eery with rows of damp concrete batteries, lookout stations, and other accruements of war. Click here to see pictures of the fort and descriptions of the armory.

The next morning, we put on heavy clothes and walked along the beach picking up interesting pebbles and driftwood then wandered around the fort and lighthouse. Sunset_Keystone

We’d taken Pu’Yi with us. Even though the cat follows Rich around the house, he’s not a dog. Rich, however, can’t grasp this fact and thought if he took the cat out of the motor home, he’d walk with him to the bathrooms. Nope. We spent ten minutes or so chasing the cat after he slithered under another motor home. Cats aren’t dogs!

The picture above is of the sunrise on Saturday morning. We had perfect weather… cold, but no rain or snow. Below is a picture of the keystone/Port Townsend ferry. It holds around 45 trucks and cars and takes around 30 minutes to cross the Puget Sound. It’s a very pleasant ride… and a nice respite from the cold. The seats in the lounge area are cushy!Keystone ferry

In April, we have another trip planned to Whidbey Island. This time, we’ll stay by Deception Pass, which is the treacherous waterway between Fidalgo and Whidbey Islands.

O’ Canada

04 Sunday Jan 2009

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The Sunday before Christmas, Stacey, Rich’s daughter, was supposed to fly from San Diego to Seattle. Her flight, however, was delayed for three days because of the snow and airline issues compounded by bad weather across the country.

By the time she arrived, it had been snowing on-and-off for over a week; although it was starting to warm up and rain drops were intermixed with sleet and snowflakes. After we picked her up, we drove north to Mount Vernon on plowed freeways and Stacey's Georoads… until we got within a few miles of our house. The roads were snow- and ice-covered and at least 18-inches of snow blanketed our house, the driveway, our Honda CRV and Stacey’s Geo (right).

In addition, the road that ran along the side of our house had been plowed; the snow from the road was piled up along our driveway and in front of the mailbox.

Rich spend at least an hour shoveling and flattening the snow so we could back out the Honda the next morning. He also had to create a pathway to the front door, using a variety of tools, including a small hoe and a chute from his riding lawn mower. We’ll look into buying a snow shovel for future storms.

On Christmas morning, we piled into the Honda (below, capped with snow) and ventured north on Interstate 5, which varied from three plowed lanes to barely one snow- and ice-covered lane as we neared the Canadian border. Crossing into Canada, the roads were plowed of all snow. RicHonda CRV, covered with snow, heading to Canadah commented that it looked like they’d mopped the freeway because they were free of gravel and debris.

In addition, within minutes of entering Canada, the sun started to shine; although, it was short-lived and throughout the day, the sun played hide-and-go-seek with thick gray clouds. Nevertheless, it didn’t rain or snow the entire day.

Looking towards downtown Vancouver, CanadaOur first stop was at the Vancouver apartment of Stacey’s ex-boyfriend’s parents. They live in a cozy two-bedroom apartment, built in the 50’s with a large mosaic in the lobby in across the front of the apartment building. Because their street was covered with snow, we had to park a few blocks away on a main street (below) and wade through 18-inches of snow to get to the sidewalk.

Jeannie, the mother, pointed out the original pink oven and stove, along with the little phone nook, and other typical 50’s architectural features.

Jeannie’s artwork, paintings on handmade, often textured, paper were hung on every wall and piled on bookcases and other furniture. I was enthralled with several paintings, especially the ones in which she pressed leaves and twigs onto the paper while it was still wet. She’d then paint on top, creating three-dimension paintings. One painting featured a large palm leaf pressed into the paper, which was painted dark red. One half of the leaf had dark shadows with a black paisley design painted on top. The other half of the leaf introduced brighter shapes of red with white stippling. The painting was very yin and yang with the black paisley on the bottom and white stippling on top.

Downtown Vancouver, Canada from marinaWe then headed to downtown Vancouver and a marina where Stacey’s boyfriend’s boat was located. Stacey wanted to remove her “stuff” since they’d recently broken up. The picture on the left was taken from the marina, which was covered with snow and some of the water was frozen.

By the time we left the marina, we were famished and headed to Chinatown, which was packed with people even though it was Christmas day. After finding a parking spot in snowy parking lots, we gobbled dim sum and enjoyed peaking in some of the shops.

With the weather cooperating, we zipped over to Stanley Park to do some sight-seeing. Below are some pictures take from Stanley Park, a 1,000-acre park, featuring the Vancouver Aquarium; walking, hiking, cycling and inline skating trails; numerous monuments; totem poles; and of course, spectacular scenery. Notice the snow and the blue skies on one side of the park and ominous clouds on the others

.Stanley Park totem polesView from Stanley Park.1View from Stanley Park.2View from Stanley Park.3

As the sun started to set, we headed back to “the states” on now plowed roads. When we got back to Mount Vernon, I concocted a quick spaghetti dinner using cans of stewed tomatoes, tomatoes sauce, olives, and spices. Our Christmas day meals consisted of mini mart coffee and junk food for breakfast, dim sum for lunch, and spaghetti for dinner! clip_image018

The next day, Friday, we returned to Kirkland, but as we neared Seattle, we were surprised to see so much snow. Evidentially, it started snowing late Christmas Eve and continued through Christmas, leaving many inches of snow. Luckily, we were in Rich’s truck, which was able to slog through the snow. Right is Rich’s truck, taken from our second story window, a few days before Christmas.

Visitors and Visiting

26 Wednesday Mar 2008

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In February, Rich’s long-time friend – Mike Pomeranz — visited him from Jerusalem. Mike and Rich both graduated from the Los Angeles Sheriff’s Academy in 1976 then joined the Glendale Police Department. Throughout the years, they’ve kept in touch and were finally able to reconnect in person after twenty or so years!
 
After picking Mike up at the SeaTac (Seattle Tacoma) Airport, they headed to Port Townsend to see Stacey on the Adventuress, a tall ship she’s been working on since October. They then took a ferry to Anacortes to see our lot and wandered through a local park, where Mike posed by a very large Native woman holding a Chinook (salmon).
 
After spending the night in Mount Vernon, they zipped down to Kirkland. That evening, all three of us went to a fabulous Indian restaurant and ate some very unusual vegetarian dishes. I had a yummy cheese curry. Both Mike and Rich had large divided trays of food with small servings of curry, yoghurt, vegetables, and dessert.
 
The owner of M. Pomeranz Bookseller, Israel’s premier English Judaic bookstore, Mike was interested in seeing the Elliot Bay Book Company. So after dinner, we headed to the historic Pioneer Square District in downtown Seattle where the Elliot Bay Book company is located. The store looks to have started as a small, hole-in-the-wall hippie bookstore with handmade cedar shelves set on bricks with posters to cover the holes, pipes, and electric cables in the exposed-brick walls. As neighboring stores closed, the bookstore expanded until today it takes up an entire block. It reminded me of Powell’s Bookstore in Portland, Oregon.
 
I scrambled up to the "sale book" section in a little loft and quickly found a book on Indian cooking, which Mike (thank you) purchased for me. I need to visit Uwajimaya or another local Asian food store to get the necessary spices and sauces like garam masala and asafoetilda to replicate the Matar Paneer (green peas and cheese curry) I had that night.
 
A few weeks after Mike’s visit, we flew to Bullhead City, Arizona to see Rich’s father, Ted. Also visiting Ted was his son Chris and his wife, Teri. Rich couldn’t remember the last time he saw Chris and only remembered that he was "nice."
 
Well, Ted has a very dry, quick sense of humor. Chris (sorry Ted) is three times funnier and can find humor and irony in the mundane and ordinary. Add a cupful of Ted, a healthy dose of Rich’s propensity for puns, insert Teri’s hysterical Italian wit and flamboyance and you have four days of hilarity. I laughed, giggled and chortled until my sides hurt!
 
The first day we were there, Rich and I had an afternoon to ourselves while Ted and Chris drove to Las Vegas to pick up Teri at the airport. We drove to Oatman, an old mining town, to pester the wild burros who are descendants of the burros brought by the miners in the late 1800’s. The burros all have attitude and will only pay attention if you whip out a dollar to buy them a bag of carrots. Over the years, they’ve developed super long ears to better hear the crinkle of money in tourists’ wallets!
 
Several new shops opened since we were last in Oatman. Behind one shop was a fenced in area with several huge tortoises. I think they were African Spurred Tortoises. Of course, I couldn’t resist petting them and thoroughly examining their scaly feet and long toenails. They’re kinda’ pigeon-toed and walk on their sharp claws.
 
In spite of the popular belief that the hare beat the tortoise, the tortoises in Oatman moved surprisingly fast and after a few minutes, I came to the conclusion that one of them was "chasing" me and not coincidentally walking the same direction. I can’t say whether he was territorial and simply determined to evict me from his fenced-in area or enjoying the attention since the scowl on his solemn faces never changed.
 
The following day, Saturday, we went to a flea market in the parking lot of the Mojave tribe Avi Casino on the Colorado River. It was fun wandering among the booths and talking to the people; Rich wasn’t impressed and thought most of the stuff was junk.
 
We then headed to Katherine’s Landing, a resort and nature area on the Colorado River and the site of Katherine Mine, an abandoned gold mine… one of the many in the area. I’m particularly fond of Katherine’s landing because the water is crystal clear and you can walk down the marina and feed giant carp. If you get on your hands-and-knees and toss out a couple of pieces of bread or other food, you can pet the carp with their huge, tooth-less gapping mouths and silly little whiskers. Most are light to dark gray. A few, like their koi cousins, are yellow, orange, white, and black.
 
They’re very friendly (or maybe just hungry) and swim up to the dock. When they swarm, they can lift a duck out of the water. It’s not unusual to see a duck walking across the backs of a group of carp.
 
That evening, Rich made his "famous" macaroni and cheese along with stewed tomatoes. My contribution was sampling (and sampling) the cheese along with making tossed green and fruit salads. While eating dinner, we watched the "Killing of Jesse James by the Coward Robert Ford." It was a rather strange movie.
 
The next day, we visited a few places then found ourselves sitting outside at Ted’s house, sipping libations and talking for hours before Rich and I dashed to the store to buy the "stuff" to make spaghetti with puttanesca sauce, garlic bread and a large salad.
 
It being our last night together with Chris, Terri and Ted, we talked until nearly 1 a.m. No one wanted to say "good-bye." Just when the conversation started to wane, another topic would be introduced and the laughter and sharing of stories would start all over again.
 
After a restful night, Rich and I packed up and headed to Hoover Dam, Boulder City and the surrounding area before driving down the Las Vegas strip on the way to the airport. The strip is surreal with so many large, flashy, themed high-rise hotels and casinos that seem to change every few years. Twenty year old casinos are now "so yesterday" and are being torn down to make way for higher priced and more luxurious establishments. Treasure Island and the Mirage now look shabby next to the Wynn Las Vegas, Bellagio and the Venetian.
Mike looking very small in Anacortes  Mike, Stacey and Rich in Port Townsend  Colorado River  Cool sculpture at Hoover Dam, commemorating the men who placed dynamite  Hoover Dam  Julie tormenting a tortoise in Oatman, Arizona  Rich with a mule from Oatman, Arizona

A Weekend in Tacoma

03 Monday Mar 2008

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Last weekend, we zipped down to Tacoma for some cultural enrichment and relaxation. Less than an hour south of Seattle, Tacoma is the second largest city in the Puget Sound with a recently renovated downtown, featuring the University of Washington, Tacoma, several museums, a beautiful waterfront, dramatic convention center, and the Tacoma Link, an electric light rail that whisks people to the Tacoma Dome and other destinations and transportation, including Amtrak, Greyhound and Sound Transit.
 
Opting to be tourist, we leisurely drove down to Tacoma, stopping at Shari’s for a large breakfast, complete with the Saturday paper and elderly waitresses with fluffed up hair who called us "Hon," and chatted among themselves about local events. It was a radical departure from our typical on-the-go breakfast of an Egg McMuffin and flavored coffee from am pm.
 
I’ve never given much thought to Tacoma. It’s simply another traffic jam to-and-from Seattle. It always appeared very industrial and bleak with the dull gray Tacoma Dome and lots of refinery and manufacturing-like complexes. I was pleasantly surprised, however, as we drove through downtown. I could hardly wait for Rich to park the car so I could get out.
 
In the late 90’s, the University of Washington (UW) opted to renovate some of Tacoma’s oldest remaining industrial structures for campus classrooms and offices. No doubt, the University architects received numerous accolades for their innovative approach to melding the old with the new. The campus is a brilliant and scintillating blend of old brick buildings, industrial pipes, new additions, plazas, and walkways that run along and cross railroad tracks that divide the campus.
 
The former Snoqualmie Falls Power Company’s transformer house became the campus library. The Mattress Factory and West Coast Grocery buildings, their names still painted on the rough brick exteriors, were gutted and made modern.
 
Looking towards the Glass Museum from the University of Washington  University of Washington in Tacoma  Dale Cuhuly sculpture at the University of Washington
 
The building of the University spurred additional improvements in the area, including turning other manufacturing buildings into trendy lofts, added pedestrian friendly parks and light rail, and cleaning up the waterway from decades of industrial waste and abuse.
 
Within walking distance is the Museum of Glass, Washington State History Museum, Tacoma Art Museum, Union Station, Tacoma Trade and Convention Center, Broadway Center for the Performing Arts (three historical theaters), and many restaurants, art galleries, and boutiques.
 
We wandered around the area for an hour before the opening of the Museum of Glass. In that time, I used up a camera battery taking pictures!
 
Chihuly Everywhere you Turn
If you know anything about glass, you know that Dale Chihuly is "the man." His work has ricocheted glass blowing from collections in art connoisseurs’ cabinets to public displays that can be enjoyed by everyone. His pieces are imaginative, gigantic, fragile, and seemingly impossible to create. If you’ve walked into the lobby of the Bellagio Hotel in Las Vegas, you’ve seen one of his sculptures/chandeliers.
 
Having grown up and stayed in the Pacific Northwest, Chihuly pieces appear in buildings throughout the area from Lincoln Square in Bellevue, Washington to Benaroya Hall in Seattle. Walking around the UW campus in Tacoma, we looked up to see a dramatic sculpture of red glass in one of the buildings.
 
Tacoma Union Station, now a U.S. court house has many of his glass pieces. The large windows at the back of the station are dotted with large red, orange and yellow platters of glass, which resemble psychedelic jelly fish.
 
Hung from the rotunda is a jumble of curly glass forms in a multitude of colors. Many of his pieces take on this form and it’s a mystery how he holds them together. A similar piece is on another wall. This one has a circular structure on which the glass is wired.
 
Union Station by the Natural History Museum  Reflections in the front entrance of Union Square  Dale Cuhuly pieces in the windows of Union Station
 
A short walk from Union Station is the Chihuly Pedestrian Bridge, which spans six lanes of a freeway along with three sets of railroad tracks and a waterfront access route. Completed in 2002 at a cost of $3.9 million, the "bridge of glass" showcases more than $12 million worth of blown glass, created by Chihuly and his team.
 
Dale Cuhuly Walkway of Glass  Dale Cuhuly wall of glass
 
Across the bridge is the Museum of Glass, which on the day we went, featured the work of Lino Tagliapietra, considered the world’s greatest living glassblower. At eleven, he started working full-time in the glassmaking industry in Murano, Italy. Sixty-three years later, he’s still creating art and exploring new techniques from large display pieces like those done by Chihuly to breathtaking, traditional venetian wine glasses, and large bowls and vases of varying colors and techniques. Unlike Chihuly, however, he seems to have changed his style every few years. What he produced in the 60’s is radically different from his later pieces. In a film we watched on him, they elaborated on his ability to constantly come up with new ideas.
 
The Tagliapietra exhibit comprised most of the museum’s galleries. The other half of the museum, the Hot Shop, is in a 90-foot, tilted steel cone. Inside is an amphitheater where you can watch glassmakers at work. Throughout the year, sometimes weekly, a visiting artist can be seen in the Hot Shop. The Saturday we were there, an artist from England (or maybe Scotland) was creating a black and white sculpture with the help of six of the resident glassblowing team. They were using three of the six available furnaces with one group making the base, another creating a vase and a third forming a strange stem that emerged from the side of the vase.
 
History Can Be Eye-Opening
Hungry after a morning of site- and glass-seeing, we hopped on the Tacoma Link and headed to the Tacoma Dome. Across the street, in old cargo warehouses, were numerous shops and small restaurants. An enthusiastic salesperson roped us into ordering from his Thai fish and chips establishment. Normally, we won’t eat fried fish, but his pitch was very convincing. And we weren’t disappointed.
 
Rich had a plate piled high with lightly battered fish filets with fries. I had two pieces of fish with a Caesar salad. It was very decadent and delicious!
 
Our hunger satiated, we took the Link back to downtown and the Washington State History Museum. I was anticipating zipping through the museum, but we barely saw everything before the doors closed. The more interesting exhibits were about "Hard Times and Homefront" and "Wageworker’s Frontier." The former showcased Seattle’s Hooverville shantytowns during the Depression, Japanese internment camps, and women having to join the work force, building airplanes for Boeing and other defense contractors during World War II.
 
"Wageworker’s Frontier" illustrated the challenges of utilizing Washington natural resources and related industries, including logging, shingle mills (very dangerous work), fishing and canning (primarily done by Chinese immigrants), farming (orchards and wheat), and mining in Roslyn, Washington.
 
The best part of the museum, however, was the traveling exhibit, "Art of the Stamp."It featured 100 small works of original art, which are used to create postal stamps. There were a couple of paintings by Norman Rockwell and other famous artists. The detail of some of the images was mind-boggling. Many took months (and several took years) to draw.
 
Our favorite stamps were done by Michael J. Deas and Mark Hess. They created miniature portraits that must have been painted with brushes, one or two bristles in size. Walter DuBois Richards has created 37 stamps and creates impossibly detailed drawings of buildings. Howard Koslow paintings are like photographs. It took great discipline for me to stop staring at his lighthouse paintings.
 
Our motel was south of Tacoma, near one of the many casinos that line the I-5 corridor. It took about 15 minutes for us to slip off our shoes, sip some cola then curl up on the bed and fall asleep! We woke an hour later then went out for Mexican food before calling it a day.
 
Zoo on a Point
The next morning, we drove to the 702-acre Point Defiance Park on the Puget Sound. Originally, a military reservation, the park was opened to the public in 1888. Along with containing the Point Defiance Zoo & Aquarium, it has numerous formal gardens (Japanese, iris, Northwest native, fuchsia, rose, rhododendron, etc.), hiking and running trails, salt water beaches with a marina, pagoda and lodge that can rented for events, an old fort, logging museum, and much more.
 
We drove around the park until the zoo opened. We were one of the first to the gate and were greeted by an elegant peacock outside the gates. He was obviously very used to humans because he casually walked around even though I "chased" after him. The peahen was meeker and stayed in the bushes.
 
I was excited about visiting the zoo because it has two beluga whales that you can view from underwater. There are only four zoos in the United States that have beluga whales… and at one of those zoos, the beluga whales refused to swim where anyone could clearly see them! Let’s put it this way, we visited the whale enclosure twice!
 
Worse, the polar bear and penguin exhibits were closed. Half of the animals were in hiding and I only saw one large cats. Dumb zoo!
 
In fairness to the Point Disappointment [Defiance] Zoo, the previous zoo that I visited was the Fort Worth Zoo, which is huge, has many fabulous animals, birds, reptiles, and water creatures, and is rated one of the top zoos in the nation.
 
Next time I want to see animals, I’m going to the Vancouver Zoo in British Columbia, Canada! And if I want to really see beluga whales, I’m going to the Vancouver Aquarium.
 
    Peacock greeter at Point Defiance Zoo  Point Defiance Zoo in Tacoma    
 

New York at $369 per Night

27 Sunday May 2007

Posted by rajalary in Travel

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In the coming months, "D" will be introducing several new systems and to create awareness they’re having several press events. After complaining to my manager that the person who created all the messaging and core content for the services being launched with the systems, should be allowed to go to at least one of the events, he concurred. I’m now sitting in a $369 room ($1,250 regular rate) composing this blog.
 
The day started early in the morning with my flying JetBlue to J.F.K Airport and sharing a cab with others to the Hotel Mela. Just driving to the hotel was exciting, passing Queens and driving through a tunnel onto Manhattan… seeing all the sight (and places I wanted to visit) then smack dab in the middle of Time Square with screaming billboards, flashing lights, chic restaurants and lounges next to everyday fast food emporiums, towering theaters, ABC studios with streaming banners, cars, taxis, scooters, tour buses, street corners swarming with camera-welding tourists, and New Yorkers just trying to get to their destinations.
 
Just a block away was the Hotel Mela, which didn’t have our rooms ready. No problem. Four of us headed to Bryant Park Grill for a leisurely lunch under large, deep green umbrellas and tall shade trees. The park reminded me of a Seurat painting with people in small groupings, eating, laying on blankets on the grass, playing games, and enjoying the 70-degree weather on a Sunday afternoon.
 
After lunch, Pooja, a hip engineer from Dubai and I took the subway to Chinatown. I’m glad she came along because I was in awe of New York and not paying attention to which subway I needed to take. Chinatown was loony. Throngs of people spilled into the streets because the sidewalks were cluttered with tables of knock-off purses and luggage, cheap jewelry, knick-knacks, electronics, DVDs, clothing, and souvenirs.
 
Several streets featured open air markets for fruits, vegetables, fish, and other perishables. The vendors took pride in their produce, ensuring everything was in rows and putting the bright-colored produce by those with less color. The prices were very cheap, probably owing to having numerous farms in New York, New Jersey (the Garden State) and the surrounding states.
 
The display of fish was equally impressive with fishmongers standing on the sidewalks offering seasonal soft shell crabs, shrimp of varying sizes, tilapia and carp (some scarcely alive, crammed into plastic bins with barely enough water to cover them), halibut, scallops, clams, and so much more. The fishy smell was very intense. You could smell it half a block away.
 
Also "scenting" the area was the smell of Chinese food, rancid oil, incenses, flowers, and the odor of hundreds of bodies packed into a small space. Rising up from the cacophony on the street were canyons of tenements. Old and sometimes very ornate buildings with high windows and little balconies, barely large enough to accommodate a chair or two or maybe string up a clothes line. In these buildings lived immigrants from across Europe, including my ancestors from Russia and Austria.
 
My grandfather told stories of jumping across the roofs of the buildings, peaking in the windows of the neighborhood prostitute and swimming in the Hudson River. His father, a widow, hired housekeepers to watch over his seven daughters and one son. My grandmother, his wife, recalled living in a 5th floor, cold water flat with her five sisters and two brothers. These historical building, musty with the lives of so many people who came to America with hope and determination is now filled with people from China, Korea and other Asian nations.
 
According to the Lower East Side Tenement Museum, between 1863 and 1935, 7,000 tenants lived in the tenement at 97 Orchard Street. At the street-level were shops. Each tenement building in New York, like the one on Orchard Street, was witness to thousands of families and shopkeepers. Multiple these thousands of lives by thousands of tenements buildings through Manhattan – millions of people, most who arrived by boat through Ellis Island with the hoping of living the American dream. And what they got were three, dank rooms in a tenement building with maybe two windows in the back and two in the front. Or perhaps, windows that opened onto an airshaft, where the sounds and smells of your neighbors drifted in on hot summer night.
 
A few blocks east of Chinatown, is Little Italy. The street was closed for a festival and filled with small café tables and crowds of people enjoying the ambiance. East of Chinatown are the streets of the "Gangs of New York," Bowery and Five Points (Worth, Baxter, Mulberry, Mosco/Park, and Little Water (no longer exists). We walked past this area to see a large monument by the Manhattan Bridge.
 
We then headed west to Delancy, Canal, Hester, and Houston Streets, in search of authentic bagels and a taste of Jewish heritage. Before leaving for New York, I had looked up information about historical synagogues in the area. However, what we found were streets lined with every imaginable piece of "schlock" that could be sold. One street was sidewalk-to-sidewalk of tables offering leather goods.
 
It was very disappointing. I hoping to meander into delicatessen and inhale the smells – salty kosher pickles, tangy cheese and succulent meats, fragrant bagels and breads, and pungent soups. One of my goals was to buy a mezuzah to protect our Washington, but there were none to be found.
 
Tired from traipsing from street-to-street, Pooja recommended we stop for a drink on a shady street. I had a refreshing glass of lemonade with fresh grated ginger. It was a perfect few minutes… I couldn’t believe that I was really in New York, watching the people walk by, seeing the streets where my grandparents once walked, and experiencing the many culture aspects of the city. I also learned about Pooja’s life in Dubai, which was fascinating.
 
It gets deathly hot in Dubai so everyone stops working and takes a nap between 1 and 4 every afternoon. She told of people dying on the streets from the heat. Because of the three hour break in the middle of the day, she observed that Dubaian seem more relaxed and live longer.
 
After sitting for a while, we found a subway station and rode the many blocks to our hotel. After getting back, I rested for a while then set out to find theater tickets. Unfortunately, there are few plays to see on Sunday evening; we’d missed the matinees and the early Sunday evening shows were just starting.
 
Determined to do "something" in the theater district, I bought two tickets for $20 to a comedy show. I was thrilled to learn that Pooja had never been to a comedy show, which featured an improvisational team. While not the best comedy I’ve seen, it was a slice of New York and an opportunity to have a tasty bowl of French onion soup.
 
Tired and anxious to tell Rich about my day, I returned to my $369 room with two windows that opened onto an airshaft, a king-size bed with six pillows and 600-count Egyptian linens, large tubes of spa shampoo, conditioner and soap, a comfy terry robe, mahogany furniture (including a comfortable desk with Internet connection), a mini refrigerator stocked with every imaginable drink, and a basket full of goodies.
 
In the basket, was a small sachet, which I thought contained tea bags. After reading the list of contents and associated prices, I discovered it was a "personal packet," two condoms, two breath mints, and tube of lubricate. Okay. How about some cashews or Cheetos!

Riverboats, Koi and the Colorado River

18 Friday May 2007

Posted by rajalary in Travel

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Last weekend, we visited Rich’s parents in Bullhead City, which is on the Arizona side of the Colorado River. On the other shore is Laughlin, Nevada, where we stayed at the fabulous Colorado Belle casino. Built in the early 1980’s, in the shape of a huge riverboat, it features perky red and white decorations, flocked wallpaper, crystal and brass chandeliers, and wall-sized paintings of river scenes with women in long dressed holding parasols and men in straw hats in seersucker suits.
 
On the first floor was the casino with a grand staircase, leading to the themed restaurants on the second floor, each decorated according to its name – Captain Buffet was nautical, Mississippi Lounge was elegant French Quarter, Mark Twain’s was rustic, Orleans Room reminded me of an old-fashioned ice cream shop, and I don’t remember how the Paddlewheel was decorated.
 
Downstairs was the Broiler Room, which Rich and I walked through on our last day at the casino. Promoted as Laughlin’s only brewery, it was memorably decorated with huge pipes, charts, instrumentation, riveted walls, and funky equipment as if you were below deck on a ship built by Jules Verne. Woven into the décor was the copper brewing and serving tanks.
 
Surrounding most of the Colorado Belle was a moat filled with koi fish, varying in size and color. The largest fish must have been two feet in length and according to a sign, weigh fifteen pounds or more. Strategic placed around the moat were fish food dispensers. For a quarter, you could get a handful of food to toss into the moat. The fish would instantly swim to the food, the larger fish pushing the smaller ones out of the water in a swirling mass of shiny orange, yellow, white and black.
 
On several occasions, we watched a throng of koi swim under a duck and push it out of the water in pursue of fish pellets. The duck would walk across the koi until it found a patch of water then nonchalantly swim away. It was a humorous symbiotic relationship.
 
In the Colorado River, which abuts the Colorado Belle, you could see large, black carp (koi are also carp) swimming in the clear aquamarine water. Intermittently, a rainbow trout would swim by. It was very enjoyable spending the morning, before the temperature rose above 100-degrees, walking along the river and when necessary, darting into a casino to cool off.
 
To answer the obvious question, the only slot machines we played were the fish food dispensers. Every quarter you put in paid off… at least for the koi and ducks.
 
It was a very pleasant few days visiting with Rich’s parents, wandering through the Colorado Belle, seeing the sites around Laughlin and Bullhead City where Rich spent many summer days, and eating way too much at the casino buffets.
 
On the way to the Las Vegas Airport, we made a quick stop at the Hoover Dam and Boulder City. The latter was constructed during the Great Depression as a "model" city where American people could look for hope for a better future. It was designed to house the workers who built the Hoover Dam and had many strict rules for behavior, including no alcohol. Happily, the fabulous stucco and tile-roofed buildings and house that were built in the city in the early 1930’s have been lovingly maintained and were a delight to see. I love 30’s architecture.
 
The Hoover Dam… the only way to describe the dam is to string together a handful of adjectives because it’s truly breathtaking, incomprehensible, a testament to man’s determination, and as mighty as a skyscraper. Built between 1931 and 1935, it is 726.4 feet high from foundation rock to the roadway, weighs 6,600,000 tons, and can withstand 45,000 pounds per square foot of water pressure.
 
Numbers seem abstract until you consider the amount of concrete used to build the dam could be used to create a monument 100 feet square and 2.5 miles high (taller than the Empire State Building) or the concrete could be used to pave a 16-feet wide highway that stretched from San Francisco to New York City!
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